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Thursday
07Aug2008

I don't believe it!

Bangkok is different at the moment.  We are at the time of year when the city is 'invaded' by tourists from the Middle Eastern countries.  Lots of women walking about in full black dress and the hajib - and many more without it.  And of course, an infinite amount of groups of young Muslim lads.  MBK shopping mall seems to be a particular favourite for these tourists.  Not surprising as MBK is probably the best mall in Bangkok in terms of selection and value for money.  It is like a gigantic indoor market interspersed with 'high street' shops.

I asked a friend why Bangkok in the summertime is such a popular time to come to Bangkok, as it is so warm and humid and there is a good chance of heavy rain at this time of year.  To my surprise, ha said that they come here to cool down!  Apparently places like Tehran and Baghdad are up in the 50 degree range at this time of year.  So they come to Bangkok to cool down. 

So, here am I, a fat farang that perspires in the heat as soon as I step outside the comfort of my air conditioning - and there they are enjoying the luxurious cold climate!!! 

I worked with two guys from the Middle East last year and they refused to touch the local food in Bangkok as they said that the Thais were dirty.  That is just ridiculous and far from the truth.  But as a result, they only ate in commercial restaurants with bland food at inflated prices.  They missed out on some great cooking by street vendors and roadside cafe owners. 

Looking around Bangkok now, it seems that this prejudiced view of Thailand is held by the majority of the tourists and visitors from the Middle East.  Let's just say that I have never seen KFC, McDonald's and Burger King so busy, as well as Starbucks!  They are jammed packed with tourists from the Middle East this month.  Absolutely crazy, as the crap that these places sells is way too expensive!  It can cost three or four times what you would pay a Thai vendor for a plate of steamed rice with two meat dishes on the side.  Crazy to be doing this just because of some misinformed prejudice.

Bangkok actually has a very good selection of Middle Eastern restaurants.  Nana Soi 3A (close to Nana BTS station) is practically full of Egyptian, Persian, Lebanese and other similar restaurants.  This includes Nasir al-Mari Restaurant and Shishas, an Egyptian eatery popular with Muslims.  The food is reasonable here, if a little overpriced, with the only real drawback being the need to be tolerant of the discrimination in service. 

In my experience, Muslim-owned establishments (Middle Eastern or South Asian) will almost always serve other Muslims before non-Muslims, even if they come into the restaurant after you have placed your own table order.  This is not unique to Bangkok.  Just about every Middle Eastern Muslim owned restaurant I have been into is rude to customers like this.  You just have to get used to it - or take your business elsewhere.

I quite like Beirut restaurant in Silom as the food is nicer than what you get at Nasir al-Mari Restaurant and the manager there does not indulge in the discrimination between Muslim and non-Muslim customers.  So you get great tasting grub from the Middle East with none of the irritation.   Beirut can be found in Silom, near to KFC and O'Reilly's Irish Bar.  It is in the same shopping complex as KFC, diagonally opposite. Check it out!

If you come to Bangkok then promise me that you will avoid the American fast food chains and indulge in some good quality Thai grub at a fraction of the price (just watch out for the chili - Thai food is way hotter than your British Indian Vindaloo!!!). 

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Reader Comments (2)

Yes, when you visit a country you should eat their food but I know there are times when we have to get american food. We are the times of fast food and it is easy for us to run to the drive thru for quick unhealthy food. I know it is not good but at time you see and taste the diffences. My sister in law likes to eat KFC because they have a lot of the different food out there and they are not offered in America. Like the pineapple pie which is not offered in america.

You got to have food in the Thailand. There are so many things that are different in Thailand than in the US. Thailand is everywhere in the US but the food just is not the same. I am lucky because I get home cooked Thai meals prepared for me by mommy. But the most things that eat in Thailand on my trips are FRUIT. There are only a few fruits you can get in the states. I wish I was there right now...

August 12, 2008 | Unregistered Commenterlani

I agree with you, Lani. Before I came to Thailand I used to eat in Thai restaurants a lot with an old lady named Lesley. We had many good lunches, often made better with a nice glass of wine. Just the one for me, but Lesley would always want another.

Anyway, the point is that Thai food in other countries is 'modified' for local tastes and the availability of ingredients. When I came to Thailand I could not believe how different some tastes are. Thai food is excellent and you also get great Chinese food here thanks to Bangkok and central Thailand having been 'colonised' by the Chinese in the past.

Bangkok has some great food to offer and whilst I can understand the temptation of eating a burger or KFC (as it is hassle free), I think people who avoid Thai food are missing out on one of the biggest treats when visiting Thailand.

August 21, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterColin LatASIA

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